Chisels: what it does and when to reach for it

Learn what a chisel does, how to hold it safely, and how to make a clean cut in wood.

CH-01Know what a chisel actually isA chisel is a flat metal blade with a sharp edge on one end and a handle on the other. You use it to cut, shave or lever away small amounts of wood where a saw or drill can't reach - things like squaring off a corner, cutting a hinge recess, or trimming a joint flush. For a beginner, a basic bevel-edge chisel (the sides are angled, not square) in one size, around 12mm to 18mm wide, covers most jobs.

CH-02Pick a chisel size that fits the jobMatch the chisel width roughly to the width of the cut you're making. Too narrow and you'll be making dozens of passes; too wide and you'll gouge into wood you wanted to keep. Beginners often grab whatever chisel is nearest rather than the right size - this makes the job slower and messier, not easier.

CH-03Hold it so your hands stay out of the blade's pathGrip the handle with your dominant hand and keep your other hand behind the cutting edge, gripping the blade near the bevel to guide it - never in front of where the edge is travelling. The wood should be clamped or held firmly so it can't shift. The mistake almost every beginner makes is bracing the workpiece with the hand that's in the direct line of the cut - if the chisel slips, that hand takes the hit.

CH-04Learn the two basic cuts: paring and choppingParing is pushing the chisel by hand, slowly, to shave off thin slices - use this for fine, controlled work like flushing a joint. Chopping is tapping the handle with a mallet to remove wood in small bites - use this for deeper cuts like starting a recess. Always cut with the grain where you can see the wood's lines running, not against it, or you risk splitting the wood beyond your cut line.

CH-05Take small bites, not one big cutBeginners often try to remove all the waste wood in one heavy cut. This is what causes the chisel to skid, dig in too deep, or split the timber. Instead, work in thin, shallow passes and sneak up on your line, checking as you go. It takes longer per cut but is far more controllable and forgiving of mistakes.

CH-06Never lever or twist the chisel sidewaysA chisel is designed to cut straight down or forward, not to be wrenched sideways like a screwdriver to pop something loose. Twisting it can snap the tip, bend the blade, or send it flying out of the wood suddenly - straight at your other hand. If something won't move, stop and cut more wood away instead of forcing it.

CH-07Check the edge is actually sharp before you blame yourselfA dull chisel is the single biggest cause of poor, ragged cuts and is also more dangerous, because a dull edge needs more force and is more likely to slip. Test sharpness by gently resting the edge on your thumbnail at a slight angle - a sharp chisel will bite in slightly on its own weight; a dull one will just slide. If it slides, it needs sharpening on a stone before you continue.

1 bottle · Honing oil or water (for sharpening stone)

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CH-08Know you've done it right: clean, flat, no splittingA good chisel cut leaves a smooth, flat surface with crisp edges, not a torn or splintered one. If the wood has split beyond your line, you cut against the grain, tried too big a bite, or the chisel was blunt. Run your finger along the cut - it should feel level with no ridges, and the corners should be square if that was your aim.

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