Circular saw: what it does and when to reach for it

Learn what a circular saw is for, when to use it, and how to make a straight, safe cut.

CS-01Understand what the tool actually doesA circular saw is a hand-held power tool with a round spinning blade that pokes out from a flat metal base plate. You run the base plate along the surface of your material and the blade cuts a straight line through it as you push forward. It's built for long, straight cuts through sheet material (plywood, MDF, plasterboard backing boards) and timber - not for curves or tight corners.

CS-02Know when to reach for it, and when not toReach for a circular saw when you need a long, straight cut through a board or piece of timber - for example, cutting a sheet of plywood down to size. Don't reach for it for curves, notches, or short fiddly cuts - a jigsaw does those better. It's also not the right tool for cutting into an existing wall, floor or ceiling; that's a job for a different guide and different precautions.

CS-03Set up the material so the cut can't pinch or dropRest your board on two sawhorses or a workbench, with the cut line hanging just past the support, not directly over it. This means the offcut piece is free to fall away as you finish the cut, instead of sagging and pinching the blade halfway through. Set the blade depth so it pokes through the underside of the board by about 5mm - deep enough to cut cleanly, not so deep it's dangerous or catches the surface underneath.

CS-04Get your stance and grip right before you switch onHold the saw with both hands: one on the trigger handle, one on the front handle. Stand to the side of the cutting line, not directly behind the saw - if the blade ever kicks back (jumps suddenly towards you), you don't want to be in its path. Keep the cable, if corded, clear behind you so it can't snag or get cut.

CS-05Make the cut at a steady, unforced paceSwitch on and let the blade reach full speed before it touches the wood - don't start the cut with the blade already pressed against the material. Push forward smoothly along your marked line; let the saw's own speed do the cutting rather than shoving it. If the saw is bogging down, slowing, or smoking, you're pushing too hard - ease off, don't force it through.

CS-06Watch for the mistake almost every beginner makesThe classic error is cutting freehand without a straight edge or guide to run the base plate against, then trying to steer the saw back on line mid-cut - this is how you get a wandering, splintered cut and increase the risk of kickback. Clamp a straight batten to the board as a fence for the base plate to run along, especially for your first few cuts.

CS-07Check you've done it rightA good cut looks straight along its full length, with a clean edge and only light splintering on the underside. The saw should have run smoothly with no juddering, stalling, or sudden jumps. If the offcut dropped away cleanly and the cut edge is straight enough to butt against another piece without a gap, you've done it right.

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