Cordless drill/driver: what it does and when to reach for it

Learn what a cordless drill/driver does, its controls, and when to use it safely.

CD-01Understand what the tool doesA cordless drill/driver is a battery-powered tool that does two jobs: it makes holes and it drives screws in and out. The trigger works like a car accelerator - squeeze gently for slow, controlled turning, squeeze harder to go faster. Beginners often pull the trigger flat out straight away, which makes the bit skid off the mark before it bites.

CD-02Learn the three main controlsThe chuck is the round part at the front that grips the bit - twist it by hand to open and close the jaws. Behind it is the clutch collar, a numbered ring (often 1 to 20-odd, plus a drill symbol) that sets how much force the tool applies before it slips instead of overtightening. The switch above the trigger sets forward or reverse - forward drives screws in, reverse backs them out or frees a stuck bit.

CD-03Fit the correct bit for the jobFor drilling holes, use a drill bit - it looks like a twisted spike. For driving screws, use a screwdriver bit, usually marked PZ2 in the UK for general woodscrews. Open the chuck by twisting it anticlockwise, push the bit in as far as it will go, then twist the chuck clockwise and give it a firm final twist by hand to lock it tight.

CD-04Set the clutch before you startTurn the clutch collar to a low number (around 3-6) for small screws in soft wood, higher for bigger screws or harder material, and the drill symbol only when you're making a hole rather than driving a screw. On the drill symbol the tool ignores the clutch and just keeps turning, which can strip a screw head or sink it too deep. A beginner's mistake is leaving it on the drill symbol for everything.

CD-05Hold and use it with control, not forceGrip the handle with one hand and steady the body of the drill with the other if it has a second handle area. Hold it square to the surface - not at an angle - and let the tool's speed and clutch do the work rather than leaning your weight into it. Pressing too hard is a common mistake; it doesn't drill faster, it just wears out bits and wobbles the hole off line.

CD-06Know when to reach for it - and when to stop and checkReach for the drill/driver for putting up shelves, assembling flat-pack, fixing brackets, or any job needing screws or holes. Before drilling into any wall, floor or ceiling, always assume a cable or pipe could be behind it. If there's any doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water. A cable/pipe detector helps but does not prove a spot is safe - it can miss cables that run deep, sit in metal conduit, hide behind metal-backed plasterboard, or simply don't follow the usual safe zones, especially in older or amateur wiring. Treat 'the detector didn't beep' as 'keep checking', not 'go ahead'.

RULES

KNOW THE RULES

Any electrical work beyond simple fixing must comply with UK Building Regulations Part P for notifiable work; if in doubt, use a qualified electrician.

CD-07Check you've got it rightA well-driven screw sits flush with the surface, doesn't spin uselessly (a stripped head), and the clutch should have clicked or slipped just as it seated - that click is the sound of a correctly set clutch working. A well-drilled hole looks round and straight, not oval or wandering off at an angle. If screws keep stripping, raise the clutch number; if they sink too deep or crack the material, lower it.

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