Fixing into solid brick and block

Learn to drill, plug and screw safely into solid brick or block so fixings hold securely.

FB-01Check the wall is solid, not a stud wallKnock on the wall with your knuckle. A dull, solid thud means brick or block behind the plaster. A hollow, drum-like sound means it's a stud wall (timber or metal frame with plasterboard), which needs different fixings entirely. This guide is for solid walls only - brick, concrete block, or poured concrete.

FB-02Check for cables and pipes before you drillUse a cable and pipe detector (a handheld device that scans the wall) over the whole area you plan to drill, not just the exact spot. Expect a cable or pipe to be there and try to prove otherwise, rather than assuming it's clear. Detectors can miss cables that run deep, sit in metal conduit, hide behind metal-backed plasterboard, or simply weren't installed where you'd expect - older or DIY wiring often ignores the usual safe zones near sockets and switches. If there is any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit (the fuse box) before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry a pipe.

FB-03Match the drill bit and wall plug to the screwYou need a masonry drill bit - it has a hard tip (often carbide) designed to bite into brick and block, unlike an ordinary metal bit which will just skid. The bit diameter must match the wall plug size, and the wall plug must match the screw gauge; packaging on wall plugs usually states which screw size they suit. As a rough example, a standard 6mm wall plug pairs with a No.8 screw and a 6mm masonry bit - check the packet rather than guessing.

4 each · Wall plugs (Rawlplug or similar, size to match screw)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

4 each · Screws (size to match wall plug)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

FB-04Drill the hole to the right depthMark the spot with a pencil. If your drill has a hammer setting (a small hammer icon, usually a switch on top), turn it on - this makes the drill punch as well as spin, which is what breaks up masonry. Wrap a strip of tape around the bit at the depth you need (usually the plug length plus a few mm) so you can see when to stop, then drill straight and steady without forcing it. The most common mistake is drilling at an angle, which makes the hole oversized and loose - keep the drill perpendicular to the wall.

FB-05Fit the wall plugBlow or vacuum the dust out of the hole - dust left inside stops the plug gripping properly. Push the wall plug in by hand until it's flush with the wall surface; if it won't go in, the hole may be slightly undersized, so try easing it with a slightly larger bit rather than forcing the plug and splitting it.

FB-06Drive the screw inScrew in by hand with a screwdriver, or on a slow, low-torque drill setting if using a power driver - going too fast can strip the plug or snap the screw head off. The plug expands and grips the sides of the hole as the screw goes in; you should feel it get noticeably harder to turn over the last few millimetres.

FB-07Test that the fixing is solidOnce the screw is fully home, grab whatever you've fixed (a bracket, hook, or batten) and pull firmly, then try to wiggle it side to side. A good fixing won't move, flex, or pull the plug out with it. If the plug spins uselessly in the hole or pulls straight out, the hole is too big for the plug - fill it, let any filler dry fully, and redrill a fresh hole nearby with the correct size bit.

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