Hand saw: setting it up and changing the bit or blade

Learn to identify a hand saw's parts, fit a blade the right way round, and check it is safely tensioned.

HS-01Learn the parts of the sawA hand saw has a handle you grip, a blade with sharp teeth along one edge, and on saws with changeable blades, a wingnut or lever near the handle that holds tension. The teeth point away from the handle, towards the far end of the blade. Beginners often grip the blade itself by mistake when handing it to someone - always pass a saw handle-first.

HS-02Check which way the teeth should faceLook closely at the teeth. On most hand saws they angle forward, so the saw cuts on the push stroke, away from your body. Hold the blade up to the light and run a finger very lightly along the back edge (never the toothed edge) to feel the direction of the angle. Fitting a blade backwards is the classic beginner mistake - it will still cut, but badly, and the saw will judder instead of gliding.

HS-03Release the old bladeFind the wingnut or lever near the handle - this is the tensioning mechanism that holds the blade tight in the frame. Turn or flip it to loosen the tension, then the blade should slide free from its pins at each end. If it feels stuck, don't force it - loosen the tensioner a little more first.

HS-04Fit the new blade the right way roundHook the new blade onto the pins at each end of the frame, teeth facing forward and away from the handle, as checked in step HS-02. Handle the blade by its ends or back edge - the teeth are sharp enough to cut skin even without any effort behind them. Once it's seated on both pins, tighten the wingnut or lever by hand until it's snug.

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HS-05Check the tension is rightA correctly tensioned blade should feel rigid, not floppy - press it gently sideways with a finger and it should barely move. Twang it lightly like a guitar string; it should give a clear, taut note, not a dull flop. A loose blade will bend and wander in the cut, and a beginner will often blame their own sawing technique when the real problem is a slack blade.

HS-06Hold the saw correctlyGrip the handle with your first finger pointing along the top, towards the blade - this helps guide a straight line. Keep your wrist and forearm in line with the blade rather than bending at the wrist. Let the saw's weight do the work on the forward push stroke; don't press down hard, as this makes the blade bind and wander.

HS-07Test cut on a scrap pieceBefore using the saw on real work, make a few practice strokes on an offcut of wood clamped or held steady on a bench. It should cut smoothly with each push, leaving a clean, straight kerf (the slot the blade cuts) without the blade twisting or jamming. If the saw skids off the surface, jams, or cuts a wavy line, stop and recheck the blade direction and tension before continuing.

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